Oval Engagement Rings: Shape, Sparkle and Setting Choices

Two oval diamonds can feature the same carat weight, colour and clarity but look very different on a side-by-side comparison, with one appearing slim and brimming with brilliance while another seems squat with a dark patch right through the middle.

It can be challenging to select an oval engagement rings because they are celebrated for their classic shape, but what matters is determining which shape is aesthetically pleasing to watch in a video and while being worn out and about.

The Shape of an Oval Diamond Can Change Its Entire Appearance

The outline of an oval diamond differs from a round brilliant in that there are variations in the length and width.

This difference is expressed as a percentage known as the length-to-width ratio. This is measured by dividing the longer side, i.e. the length, by the width.

For example, a diamond measuring 9 mm in length and 6 mm in width will have a ratio of 1.50 (9 divided by 6 equals 1.5).

The commonest length to width ratios are:

• 1.30 – 1.40: oval-shaped with an almost heart shape due to the gentle taper at the ends.
• 1.40 – 1.5: more elongated and narrow with an apparent increase in the length and depth.
• 1.50 and wider: slimming oval diamond shapes.
• The ratios represent a personal preference and are unlikely to determine quality grades.

The elongated shape can give an illusion of increased coverage on the finger, but the true dimensions will depend on the actual measurements and personal preferences.

When determining the engagement ring to purchase, it is best to determine the length to width ratio in conjunction with the actual dimension to detect any discrepancy.

A diamond Grading Report Is Not Always the Same As It Looks Online

While an online image cannot reflect the true appearance of a diamond, the certificate that comes with the stone is also limited to describing its quality on paper.

There is one particular diamond quality that is worth paying attention to and that is the bow-tie effect.

This is a black spot at the centre of an oval-shaped diamond which is most apparent when the diamond is being rotated.

It is due to the interaction of the stones obstructions and the light travelling through the centre of the stone.

While it is relatively common in oval brilliant cut diamonds, a strong bow-tie effect will give the impression of a dull quality in the middle while the surrounding areas are vibrant with colour and sparkle.

• To assess this attribute, it is best to view a video of the diamond rather than a still image.
• It is important to view the movement and interaction of the centre of the stone.

If the dullness is apparent from more than one viewing angle, a like-for-like comparison with another oval diamond could be beneficial.

A diamond grading report issued by the Gemological Institute of America does not include a cut grade for oval brilliant diamonds even though their certificate includes polish and symmetry grades, so direct visual comparison is the best approach.

Diamond Carat Weight Can Give a Misleading Impression of Size Compared to Weight

Carat measures the weight of a diamond, not its apparent size.

While the apparent size is relative to the length, depth, and width, it is possible for a shallower diamond to weigh more than one that is deeper in the same carat weight range.

A one-carat oval can be broader than another in the same carat weight category with the difference made up by the addition of weight beneath the surface.

Where a budget for an engagement ring is fixed, this apparent difference in measurements can be leveraged to create an engagement ring with greater visual appeal using a lighter centre diamond with superior measurements and light-performance.

Likewise, when determining the colour grade and clarity, a balance should be struck between apparent quality and value, rather than buying a stone with a better colour grade that will not necessarily look better to the naked eye.

It is helpful to view a selection of engagement rings in a lighted room and determine the apparent differences between the grading reports.

Lab-Grown Diamonds Are Another Option for an Engagement Ring

Lab-grown diamonds have the same chemistry, atomic bonding structure and optical properties as a natural diamond, but have been cultivated in a laboratory environment.

They present an alternative option for an engagement ring in Australia, with the opportunity to purchase a larger centre stone, or allow for increased budget with the choice of a higher-grade metal for the ring setting.

It is important to be aware that a laboratory-grown diamond is just that – a laboratory-grown diamond, and that laboratory-grown diamonds carry their own grading criteria and should not be confused with natural diamonds.

A grading report from an independent laboratory can be helpful in confirming the properties of the laboratory-grown diamond and the appropriate descriptions used.

Depending on the issuing authority for the laboratory-grown diamond grading report, information included in the report and descriptions used will vary.

In making value for money comparisons, it is essential to also assess ongoing care requirements for both laboratory-grown and natural diamonds, as neither type of diamond is immune to damage due to wear-and-tear.

How Ring Settings Affect the Appearance and Practicality of Oval Diamonds

The setting can transform the look and practical appearance of an oval-shaped engagement ring.

A four-prong solitaire setting shows off the diamond with minimal metal on display while a six-prong setting gives added support but is more apparent in the finished ring.

A bezel setting covers the edge of the diamond with a strip of metal to create a smoother contour around the diamond. This type of ring setting may be more appropriate for those who are involved in manual work or wear clothes with zippers and buttons with the choice influenced by a preference for the overall aesthetics.

There are a range of options to enhance an oval engagement ring including the addition of a hidden halo that incorporates small diamonds set below the centre stone, and pavé diamonds set along the band to create an added sparkle.

The added detail means lab created diamonds for such an engagement ring with the small diamonds and thinner metal band potentially requiring more delicate care over time.

The choice of metal used in the setting will influence the appearance of the engagement ring, with platinum being highly durable but prone to tarnishing while white gold is more resistant to oxidation but may need to be replated, and yellow and rose gold provide a warmer ambience that outlines the apparent diamond shape.

As an engagement ring is not indestructible, these options can be considered with reference to the intended wear of the ring, but there is no question that an oval-shaped engagement ring with a broader and lower setting will appear longer on the finger than a narrow and tall setting.

Engagement Ring Considerations Should Include the Wedding Band Fit

An easy oversight when purchasing an oval-shaped engagement ring is the fit of a wedding band.

An oval engagement ring may have its setting positioned lower than a round-shaped diamond with an apparent gap between the plain band wedding ring and oval engagement ring.

While some like the look, others prefer a closer fit with the choice reflected in a plain band or curved wedding band. Either way, the choice can be made before the engagement ring is created, and in testing the combination, a jeweller will be able to advise on the basket height and prongs if appropriate to allow the bands to meet.

Details Worth Confirming When Considering an Oval Engagement Ring

Those purchasing an oval engagement ring either from an Australian jeweller or online should make inquiries regarding more than just the centre diamond when placing any engagement ring order.

In addition to the ring size and whether it can adjusted, it is appropriate to make inquiries regarding the ring production time, and whether an exchange, alteration, or adjustment can be made if the engagement ring is not suitable on receipt.

While custom engagement rings will have different terms and conditions associated compared to a standard engagement ring design, Australian Consumer Law requirements cannot be waived.

Questions should also be raised about the information revealed in the diamond grading report along with clarification of the metal used in the production of the engagement ring, the construction of the setting and whether maintenance or servicing of the ring can be arranged. If computer-generated design images are produced and displayed during the engagement ring design process, confirmation should be sought to determine whether photos or videos will be provided prior to dispatch.

Finally, the ring setting should be considered with reference to wear in comparison to the strength of construction and thickness of metal, with a thin band being more delicate than assumed.